Monday, August 30, 2010

Historic Hampshire County

Winsor Dam at the Quabbin Park
List of wildlife seen recently
We've spent a fair amount of time in Amherst and Northampton, both in Hampshire County, so I wanted to  explore something else in Hampshire County.  We did need to go to Amherst (Am -erst, the "h" is silent) to pick up our son, so I looked for a spot where we hadn't been before.  In my newest book, Off the Beaten Path:  A Guide to Unique Places in Massaschusetts,  I came across the Quabbin Reservoir.  The visitor's center was located in Belchertown, which is indeed in Hampshire County.  So we continued south on Route 202 after our Hamilton Orchards lunch to Route 9 East in Belchertown.  Down a bit was a sign for the Quabbin Reservoir Visitor's Center and Winsor Dam.  Heading down a tree-lined driveway, it opened up to a beautiful expanse of water on our left and a visitor's center on the right.  It was another beautiful July day as we overlooked the Quabbin Reservoir.  The history of the Quabbin, which supplies the water to the metropolitan Boston area, is quite fascinating.  Four towns were taken to build the reservoir by damming up Swift River in the 1930's.  The visitor's center had a lot of displays of both the history and the natural history of the area.  A very friendly employee answered my husband's questions about the history of the dam and how it effected the townspeople who were forced to move.  Unfortunately for our visit, we did need to hurry to Amherst, but we bought a hiking map and would like to come back in the fall and explore the cemetery that was moved from the towns as well as some foundations that exist.  Looking at the pictures of what the towns looked like before was really interesting to try and imagine the beautiful town common that was now under water.

Fantastic Franklin County

Deerfield River from the Buckland side.
Once we decided to undertake this quest, I needed to find out how many actual counties there were in Massachusetts.  A quick Google search led me to the answer -- 14.  The surprising fact was that Western Massachusetts has four counties -- Hampshire, Hampden, Berkshire, and Franklin.  I had never heard of Franklin, but little did I know by the end of the next two weeks, I would travel to Franklin County twice and love each visit.  For our first trip, we decided to head west on Route 2 out to Shelburne Falls.  We had passed the signs for "The Bridge of Flowers" while on trips out to Williams College, but had never stopped there before.  So on yet another hot July Saturday, we started our trek in the late afternoon, arriving in Shelburne Falls around 4:30 p.m.  Driving off of Route 2 down into the town, I was quickly mesmerized by the funkiness of Shelburne Falls.  Shelburne Falls is basically the town green area of Shelburne and Buckland.The business section of town consisted of flowers and brightly colored shops.  I was eager to explore this area.  We parked our car on the other side of the bridge, which is technically Buckland (the river splits the two towns) and walked back across the bridge into Shelburne.    My husband, searching out a cup of coffee, pointed out the Fox Town Coffee Shoppe.  Entering the restaurant, there was an old fashioned counter, that we sat at.  We decided to try a piece of pie and it was delicious.  After our snack, we ventured out to the bookshop, which had great outdoor seating, and then looked at the other stores in town.  We stopped in front of a small bistro, when the owner came out and announced that she had no seats left tonight, a sign to me that the area was surviving the recession okay.


Glacier Pot Hole
Next up was a stroll down to the Glacier Potholes.  What you may ask is a glacier pothole?  Well, a glacier pothole is formed by the action of water swirling rocks along the ground during the glacier age.  These potholes were extremely unique.  I guess in the past, they let people swim in these, but today, there was a large fence prohibiting anyone from going down there.  Beautiful waterfalls were also present at this site adding to the natural beauty.  On Deerfield Avenue, where the potholes were located was the Mole Hollow Candle Factory, a great art gallery store with lots of great items, and a yoga studio, complete with Buddha gracing the outdoor grounds.  There was certainly a mystic feel to this town.


Deerfield River
Entrance to the Bridge of Flowers
We then made our way to the Bridge of Flowers, the most interesting flower garden I have ever seen.  Instead of tearing down an old bridge, instead, what started as a war memorial is now a bridge of the most beautiful flowers.  It is only open to foot traffic and on this hot summer's afternoon, there were many people admiring the beautiful flowers.  Looking northward up the Deerfield River was also quite scenic.  After admiring the 300 plus types of flowers, we stopped at the general store to pick up some water.  The town had a very friendly feel to it as we left and headed more into Buckland.  We decided to "wing it" without our GPS Lucy and see where the road would lead us.  Beautiful lush green rolling hills surrounded us as we entered the small town of Ashfield.  I believe this area is sometimes called "Hilltowns" or "The Hidden Hills." We traveled route 112 into Route 116, where we landed in the town of Conway.  Another beautiful little town, complete with a really unique library structure which I later found out was called the Marshall Field Memorial Library after Marshall Field, who grew up in Conway and later founded Marshall Field's department store in Chicago.  We finally came to Route 91 and headed back north towards Route 2 East.  However, we were hungry and from our guide book The Berkshire Hills and Pioneer Valley of Western Massachusetts,  we decided to stop in Turner's Falls to find a bite to eat.  Turner's Falls is the home to the "Great Falls" which are one of the first waterfalls in the country that was circumvented by a transportation canal in the early 1800's.  This town had a lot of interesting architecture, and I could tell that it must have been quite the place at one time.  We found Shady Glen, another old-fashioned diner where you could order a variety of foods. On our way out, we saw an old picture of the owner and the late Senator Ted Kennedy.  We asked the gentleman behind the counter if that was him, and he nodded proudly that it was.  Heading back eastward on Route 2, we stopped at an ice cream stand and then headed over to Barton's Cove in Gill.  The sun was starting to set as boaters pulled their boats out of the water.  It had been a really fun time discovering all that Franklin County had to offer on this hot Saturday.


The view from Hamilton Orchards
The following Saturday, we were heading towards Hampshire County from Route 2 west to Route 202 South.  As we have a son who attends Amherst College, we had traveled this road many times.  The towns go from Shutesbury to New Salem back to Shutesbury to New Salem again.  Checking my website on what towns are in what counties, I found out that these towns were also in Franklin County.  We've always passed signs for pies, sandwiches, cider, but never ventured up the road to check it out.  Since again, we needed to eat, we decided to take that right and head up to Hamilton Orchards in New Salem.  We were not disappointed at all,  The Apple Barn was on the left and had a magnificent view of the rolling hills.  In the barn, there was a section where you could buy fresh fruit and baked goods, and then there was a small restaurant.  We each ordered a delicious pulled pork sandwich, and we also each ate a wonderful cider donut.  You could eat inside and also have a wonderful view, but we elected to head outside to enjoy the scenery.  Some apples were already starting to turn red, and the orchard does offer pick your own apples in the fall.  We will definitely stop there again on our many treks to Amherst in the fall.


Franklin County -- friendly people, lots of beautiful scenery and unique things to see and do.  A hidden treasure in Massachusetts for sure!

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Suffolk County: Where History and Food Intersect

Cambridge Street
Boston's North End
A Sampling of Vegetables at Haymarket Square
On yet another hot July Saturday, David and I traveled into Boston to participate in the Team Sarcoma Walk that started at Massachusetts General Hospital.  Cambridge Street was eerily silent on this hot summer morning.  The walk started at MGH, headed up to Government Center, and then headed down by the Old State House.  http://www.cityofboston.gov/freedomtrail/oldstate.aspWe were here on July 17th, a mere 234 years from when Bostonians gathered in 1776 to hear the Declaration of Independence read from the balcony.  From there, we snaked through Faneuil Hall. http://www.cityofboston.gov/freedomtrail/faneuilhall.asp This vibrant market was very crowded with street entertainers and lots of folks visiting the variety of shops and stores in the area.   Now that the old "Central Artery" has come down, you can see the Boston Waterfront from this spot.  Since it was so hot and humid, many children and their parents were taking advantage of the great fountain that is located in Waterfront Park.   This park is officially known as Christopher Columbus Park http://www.bostonharborwalk.com/placestogo/location.php?nid=3&sid=18 and it was a beautiful spot to stop and look at the harbor.  Boston's North End was the next location on our walk.  The North End is home to many a great restaurant and bakery, and again the area was full of activity by both residents and visitors.  Another part of our walk was Haymarket Square. http://www.newenglandtravelplanner.com/go/ma/boston/orientation/haymkt.html Today, it was bustling with vendors and shoppers.  Lots of fresh fruits and vegetables were available for sale.  We headed back to the start of our walk and called it a day.

Vegetable shopping in Chinatown
Dragonfruit
However, about three weeks later, I was involved in a course on East Asia and for one day, we headed into Boston to learn about the Chinese Immigrants and the Vietnamese community in Boston.   While a lot of people who visit Boston focus on the Freedom Trail, I was fortunate to participate in a tour conducted by the Chinese Historical Society of New England.  http://www.chsne.org/  The docents for the tour grew up in Chinatown and to have a personal perspective really gave the tour an unique flavor.  While there are certainly many Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, there are also Vietnamese, Mongolian, Japanese, and Korean restaurants.  Residents bought fruits and vegetables on the street and headed home.   I bought a dragonfruit from a street vendor.


For our next assignment, we were to eat at a Vietnamese restaurant.  (this certainly was not a hardship!)  We made our way back to 7 Beach Street to Xinh Xihn Restaurant.   It was well after noon and the little restaurant was quite crowded.  Some of my classmates were already there so my friend and I sat down.  It was yet another hot steamy day in Boston, and I wanted to try out a theory that if you ate something hot in temperature on a hot day that it would cool you down.  So with that in mind, I ordered a bowl of Chicken Noodle soup.  It was just wonderful; however, it certainly did not make me any less hot :(  So much for that hypothesis!

Visiting Suffolk County affords the visitors a wonderful blend of history and great choices of food.  From Chinese immigrants to the historic government sites, Boston has it all.  Public transportation is an inexpensive option to get around the city.

First Stop: Essex County

Photo from the deck of The Landing in Marblehead

Another view from The Landing's Deck
I'd been feeling a little under the weather and my husband David suggested a ride to the coast may perk me up a tad.  Since the North Shore of Massachusetts isn't all that far away from our home in Concord, we took a look at a map and decided to head for Marblehead.  Armed with our trusty GPS Lucy and a few restaurant suggestions that we had found on-line, we started up Rt 128 towards our destination.  It was a warm July Sunday and the traffic was light on our ride.   We exited onto Route 114 and cut through Salem towards our destination.  I've probably been in Marblehead, but long ago, so I was looking forward to seeing if David's hypothesis that a ride to the shore would perk me up.  The minute I saw the beautiful blue sparkling harbor, I immediately knew that this indeed would cure my malaise.  Driving through the narrow streets of the center of Marblehead, I spotted the many old homes, complete with Widow's Walks, that had been tastefully refurbished.  Many of the homes had a plaque that included the original owner's name and their occupation.  Ship Builder was one of the more popular signs that we spotted and since Marblehead was once the center of the fishing industry, this made perfect sense.  According to the town's website, http://www.marblehead.org/index.aspx?nid=10, Marblehead is no longer a vibrant fishing community, but its harbor is still home to many different types of recreation vessels.  Finding a place to park on this bright summer day was somewhat difficult, but we found one space on a side road, walked down through the historic town center, and headed to Front Street, that is parallel to the harbor.  We spotted The Landing Restaurant and were lucky to land a seat on the outdoor deck.  This restaurant, http://www.thelandingrestaurant.com/ is located right at the docks and on this brilliant afternoon, boats were heading in and out constantly.  The Landing had a great variety of items on its menu and we were fortunate to still be there in time for Sunday brunch.  David had a tasty omelette and I had the Monte Cristo sandwich.  After our brunch, we walked along the harbor and then back into town to check out the shops.  There were a variety of types of shops, including a Crosby's Marketplace, which is where our son works in Concord.  It was during this trip that we came up with the idea of visiting all the counties in Massachusetts.  If they were as nice as this spot, we would be in for an interesting summer.

Friday, August 20, 2010

County by County

Right next to the Tsongas Arena in Lowell
This summer, my husband and I had taken a little road trip up to Marblehead, which is in Essex County.  While there, we came up with a challenge...to visit each county in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts during the summer and fall of 2010.  First, I needed to find out how many counties there were -- 14 to be exact!  I have lived in Massachusetts for 50 years and had never been to some of the counties, especially in Western Massachusetts.  We wanted to visit some off-the-beaten path locations in each county. With two sons in college, I also wanted to look for attractions that were not that pricey.   So....stay tuned for a run-down of what we saw, ate, and did in our county-by-county tour.